Introduction
Waves represent one of the most significant natural phenomena that occur in water. They can be energetic and capable of penetrating the depths of the ocean. Still, the question is, what happens when a wave reaches shallow water? The purpose of this paper is to examine this process associated with waves’ progress when they reach the shallows.
Process Description and Explanation
Waves are caused by the movement of water masses and the influence of factors such as temperature, pressure, and air movement. When waves reach the shallows, their sources, such as wind or currents, give way to other forces, including reflection and refraction. Thus, these forces lead to the splitting of the wave into two, resulting in a decrease in their intensity. The waves pass through the shallows and disperse into wider polar and azimuthal characteristics (Trujillo & Thurman, 2020). During this process, the height of a wave typically increases. Still, its length tends to decrease significantly, which affects the stability of the wave.
The dispersion of waves in the shallows not only affects their intensity but also affects the depth and movement of water in deeper parts. Thus, a wave becomes slowed and leans forward, breaking on the shore. In cases where waves encounter reflection and refraction, they produce more friction, affecting the depth and characteristics of the water movement (Trujillo & Thurman, 2020). This process can lead to the emergence of specific phenomena, such as turbulence and tides.
Conclusion
In conclusion, as ocean waves approach and enter shallow water, they undergo a significant transformation, broadening and dispersing into more pronounced polar and azimuthal characteristics. Due to reflection and refraction, waves often split, which causes a decrease in their overall intensity. These processes also generate more friction, altering both the water’s depth and the characteristics of its movement in surrounding, deeper areas. Ultimately, waves profoundly change the body of water they encounter upon reaching the shallows.
Reference
Trujillo, A. P., & Thurman, H. V. (2020). Essentials of oceanography (13th ed.). Pearson.