Introduction
A plethora of arguments has emerged and continues to persist in discussing whether Normcore is a thing. The term “Normcore” can be traced back to K-Hole, which released its youth report titled “Youth Mode: A Report on Freedom” as the main coiner of the word (khole.net, 2013). The main idea was to promote inclusivity in the fashion world, as Normcore offers a subculture that seamlessly blends the unfashionable and the fashionable. It paints an ideal within the commercial fashion and subcultural context, respectively, that must be met to realize the temperament that Normcore advocates (khole.net, 2013).
Normcore can be viewed as a social, cultural, and fashion movement, as well as an internet meme, that has garnered recognition and massive media support since its inception. Normcore, often perceived as the death of fashion, a diversion from individuality, and a form of consumerism, has defied the odds and remains a subculture.
Fashion is one aspect of people’s lives that evolves rapidly and is influenced by age, trends, media, and consumer purchasing power. The emergence of the term “Normcore” led most fashion outlets and mainstream media to debunk it as a “this too shall pass” phenomenon (Magil, 2014). This is mainly due to the term’s popularity as an internet meme, which, to some extent, led most people to perceive it as a joke (Sacks, 2015). The seriousness concerning the matter could be seen in the headlines, where it was given adverse topics such as “Why the ‘Normcore’ Phenomenon is a Fraud” and “First Came Normcore, Now Get Ready for Gorpcore” (Elle, 2014; Chen, 2017). These accelerated its prominence, ensuring it gained attention.
Amidst the speculation that Normcore will fade away like other fashion styles and trends, it has taken root as a social movement for a specific group of individuals. Normcore has been widely accepted among these individuals, mainly the youth, as it allows one to dress in a normal and 1990s fashion sense rather than appear fashionable (Sacks, 2015). Normcore widely accepted the unisex style, contributing to its gaining popularity and mainstream media attention. This style allows individuals to wear brandless outfits while being fashionable, with little attention to fashion trends. It enables young people and others to dress however they want without being perceived as inclined to specific fashion tastes that differ from what is expected.
Even with these backlashes, normcore persists and does not signify the death of fashion sense or self-expression. People must try to see and perceive Normcore for what it is, rather than what the larger speculating masses perceive it to be. Normcore is a justification for a specific class of people who have refused to comply with hipsterdom, representing a way in which little to no attention is given to fashion (Magill, 2014).
Eventually, capitalist economic systems found a loophole through Normcore’s significant growth, which had previously been an unprofitable part of the fashion community and population. Branded under other names, such as “savvy marketing,” the trend received over 8 million Google hits (Magill, 2014). However, Normcore’s public presentation has been criticized as a subculture that can be purchased rather than developed over time.
Normcore and Games of Leisure, Social Class, Coolness, and Authenticity
Normcore can be described as a blend of successive status leisure games, authenticity, coolness, and social class. The emergence of Normcore has been linked to extreme consumerism, but this is not the case (Ferrier, 2014). It may be one reason Normcore gained popularity, but it is not the sole reason.
A close analysis of society’s structure reveals factors such as social class, which are closely linked to the trend. Normcore indeed gained the attention of the wealthy and popular. It was closely linked to high-profile figures, such as Steve Jobs and Pharrell Williams.
It demonstrates successive status games of leisure and the desire to be categorically differentiated from the common mass, allowing the wealthy and famous to create stability in their elevated social status (Ferrier, 2014). Even on formal occasions, people like Steve Jobs could make an appearance wearing such clothes, creating a need for others to follow the Normcore trend and gain acceptance from the global community.
Comparing normcore to hipsterdom and Suits culture reveals a more remarkable similarity, especially in how they wear suits. Just as wearing suits conveys social class and expresses loyalty and trust as a social being to others and organizations, Normcore presents an ideology altogether different. Normcore subverts this high-fashion culture aristocracy (Hanbury, 2018).
Normcore can also be described as a rebranded essential culture, as it appears to be the same without examining its self-definition. Neither offers a solution to the challenge of uniqueness or to affirming one’s individuality. This falls on the list of problems facing the fashion-first world, as not everywhere in the world do people get the chance to care about whether they look too niche or too mainstream.
The Implications of Normcore for Consumer Culture
Normcore allows women to dress traditionally, just like their male counterparts, without worrying about being perceived as unfeminine. This represents a significant step forward in the fashion consumer world, as these attires can be made once and be accessible to every gender (Magill, 2014). Women who prefer not to wear tight dresses, pay attention to fashion, and opt for heels can blend in without being overlooked.
For normcore, individuals need not pay attention to their outer image and focus on standing out for what they do rather than the clothing they wear. According to Magill (2014), it is an outgrowth of deliberate fashion rejection, a new ideology that might require new products or clothing styles and lines. Similar to the trendy modernist reactionary and hipster capitalist culture critique, it will promote a rediscovery of fashion styles and hidden craft value.
Normcore goes against the consumer culture of using fashion as an excuse to spend money on designer and branded clothes. Duncan (2014), through an interview with one of her colleagues, shows that most people use fashion and trends to satisfy their spending culture and use such opportunities as excuses. People end up defeated and obscured through such consumptions rather than discovering themselves and their identities.
Nevertheless, the trend has gained momentum and become a bandwagon, including magazines. This has also seen brands such as Adidas setting a style segment for the same (Duncan, 2014). Younger, smaller magazines also adopted the trend during the peak of Normcore in 2013. All this information seemed to converge mostly on social media and entertainment houses. With the speed at which fashion evolves, Normcore provides consumers with a stable, consistent source of products tailored to this subculture.
Anti-Normcore observers, such as Doonan (2014), believe that Normcore is dead and has no future in the fashion industry, as it is plain and masks many unknown agendas. Doonan (2014) describes the idea as bluntly encapsulating quirky fashion with no class. Similarly, he describes his brief encounter with the “I-Would-Rather-Die-Than-Wear-Anything-Flamboyant” aesthetic in fashion in 2012, during a menswear launch by Alexandre Mattiussi.
Even though the fashion looked tidy and nonthreatening, the publisher was not convinced about the future of such a style. The once attractive blouson, legendary dad sweater, and pairs of slacks had been stripped of the remaining flourishes they had in them. Doonan (2014) described the style as deceptive even though it appears inclusive and good-natured. These are but assumptions and personal opinion.
Other reporters are keen to note that, even though the likes of Steve Jobs and John Kerry are considered normcore icons, it can be argued that Steve Jobs is one person who refused to let go of his youthful style when he returned to Apple. Maybe the time had changed and passed him by (Cerulo, 2014). Mistaking John Kerry for the same can also be argued by the fact that his New Balances were purchased for him because of their comfort, rather than as a Normcore outfit choice. For Cerulo (2014), the trend recalls nothing more than Graham and Patty Chase, Angela’s parents, with their mom jeans and mock-neck sweaters. This emphasizes that, to people like him, the Normcore fashion trend is not a thing but rather ordinary 90’s culture, filled with nostalgia, seeking popularity.
With all the speculation over whether Normcore was just another popular meme or a genuine fashion subculture, celebrities have continued to join the movement and have formed a strong consumer culture. Reading the article “Youth Mode: A Report on Freedom,” it is clear that the fathers of Normcore did not have a singular interest in the youth’s fashion as much as they did in the culture of consumerism and its impact on the youth. Renwick (2022) discusses Frank Ocean and Tom Holland in his magazine article as the latest recruits in a fashion that, to many, is nonexistent. Renwick (2022) illustrates the evolution of style from Logomania, maximalism, minimalism, Gorpcore, and Tech Bro to Workwear. Even amidst all these, Normcore still has major players showing pride and addition to the eclectic taste.
The spirit lives on, even in the latest trends, such as the Kawasaki Ninja and the Balenciaga masks, which say it all. The latest outfits Ye has worn reveal the wear and tear on his clothes, as well as their close resemblance to daddy jeans, a typical Normcore fashion (Renwick, 2022). The same can also be seen in how Britney and Justin’s denim appeared to have faced 1,000 spin circles, yet was probably sourced at a Wyoming vintage shop.
The costume designer and stylist also caused a fuss when she dressed one of the actors in the HBO movie scene in a quiet, cozy, tonal outfit. These comprised Dries cardigans, slouchy corduroy, New Balance 993s, and vintage tweed (Renwick, 2022). When interviewed, she says she had the viewers in mind when selecting the outfit, indicating that normcore remains relevant and that many people may still want to try it.
At the latest celebrity events, Kim Jones has been seen on the runway in tailored tracksuit bottoms and delicately worn Birkenstocks. Others, such as Bourgeois, a TikTok influencer, are occasionally seen in dad jumpers and baggy denim, even though he is more inclined towards Class 207. It is also worth noting that Renwick (2022) found that Normcore had been supported since its inception.
The latest support came when Netflix invested $500 million in Seinfeld. This introduced the new generation to long periods of permed mullet, high-waisted denim, and the great George Costanza coats. Even at Jil Sander’s, the same theme prevails and is associated with the chicest brand (Renwick, 2022). Luke Meyer and Lucie rocked the event with boots, hoodies, and vintage paired beanies.
Conclusion
To conclude, Normcore still exists, although it is no longer as under the radar as it once was. This style fosters harmony and unity among individuals, transitioning from individuality to inclusivity within a diverse group. Even with the critiques and the popularity, the style has captured the attention of well-off people such as Steve Jobs. Its existence does not signify the death of fashion sense, self-expression, and consumer culture. Despite debates over whether Normcore is merely a fleeting meme or a genuine fashion subculture, celebrities continue to embrace it, fostering a robust consumer culture. Normcore as a subculture remains present.
References
Cerulo, E. (2014). Is Normcore really a thing?
Chen, J. (2017). First came normcore. Now get ready for Gorpcore.
Doonan, S. (2014). Beware of normcore, the pernicious new fashion trend.
Duncan, F. (2014). Normcore: Fashion for those who realize they’re one in 7 billion.
Ferrier, M. (2014). The end of the hipster: How flat caps and beards stopped being so cool.
Hanbury, M. (2018). Millennials are dressing more like their parents – and it’s terrible news for H&M and Forever 21.
khole.net. (2013). Youth mode: A report on freedom.
Magill, J. R. (2014). Irony, sincerity, normcore: Jon Stewart, Stephen Colbert, David Foster Wallace and the end of rebellion.
Renwick, F. (2022). Frank Ocean’s in, so is Tom Holland: Welcome to Normcore’s well-worn new wave.
Sacks, D. (2015). That’s a total K-hole thing to do.