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The Contemporary Fashion Collections of Ann Demeulemeester and Gucci

Introduction

Several clothing empires have shown their latest creations for this year. However, I would like to concentrate on the two of the most influential designers of today’s generation, Ann Demeulemeester and Gucci. Ann Demeulemeester and Gucci have contributed greatly to the world of fashion, and have given enormous innovative designs that a lot seem to patron. However, studying their latest collection, how does each designer distinguish the relation of their ideas to any gender? Moreover, of which collection is more ladylike?

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Background Research and Theory

Frida Gianni, creative director of Gucci, started in a small ready-to-wear house before becoming a designer for Fendi. In September 2002, she became a handbag director of Gucci. After two years she became an appointed creative director of accessories. Because of her innovative ideas and in addition to her task on accessories, she got hold of the Creative Director of Gucci in 2005. In 2006, she was able to acquire men’s wear. (Gucci, n.d.) Her design is influenced greatly by her femininity with a touch of Italian point of view. As stated in the article created by Gucci:

Gianni’s design approach and management style are built with confidence and her ability to decide including her unique outlook on style using her feminine and Italian point of view (Gucci, n.d.) However, even before Gianni came to the title, Tom Ford gave a tremendous roar in making Gucci as one the wealthy and glamorous house of style. Gucci knows how create glamour though clothes, accessories, shoes etc. that can be enjoyed by men and women. (Champbell, 2002) In the latest collection of Gucci, “Gucci Exotica”, there are several found realistic creations that were found. Gianni incorporated balance streetwear with the following styles: bikinis, tropical prints, and filmy disco dresses. She made sure accessories aren’t left unseen. The following accessories that were included are an up-sized, slouchier, hand-stitched “New Jackie,” and a backpack that transforms into a carryall. (Mower, 2008) In addition, in an article from WWD.com, Gianni showed the crowed three significant creations: Lean edgy suits with low-slung pants, fedoras, leggy micro caftans with bold prints and safari style. And using vivid color — turquoise, purple, bright green. While for eveningwear, visions in silk jersey and chiffon.” (2008) In a nutshell, here is the list of styles found in the latest collection for Gucci. As stated by Zinderman (2009):

  • Colors found are black and charcoal joined by shades of red, fuchsia, turquoise, vivid blues, plums, purple and forest green.
  • Skinny pants with wide shoulders and flowing tops. Feathers, furs, velvet, leather, silk, patent leather, and shimmering sequins. Such as patchworked leggings
  • Metallics were present on tops and leggings. While accessories were metal studs.
  • Slicked back and ironed flat hair with overdone eyes and bright red lips. Shoes were high platforms with oversized sunglasses.

Ann Demeulemeester graduated from Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. She has mastered deconstructionism and became legendary in creating wonderful pants. Later on, she became part of a group of young designers that transcended in Belgium during the 1980s.In 1985 she started her own clothing line and had her debut on woman’s wear. It was in the late 80s and early 90s that her creations emerged and made her known. Her style is found to be quite modernist. (Davis, 2007) She once said as stated in Top Fashion Designers (TFD) article, that women aren’t supposed to be like Barbie dolls, in fact she finds it more pleasing to find subtle femininity in men. (2009) In her latest collection, several reviews found Demeulemeester’s 2009 collection quite fresh. According to Inaya404 she finds Demeulemeester’s collection gives so much appeal to having masculinity mixed. (2009) WWD expressed their findings on Ann Demeulemeester’s creation, “ Demeulemeester, who is known for her rock aesthetic, has no problem with a little glamour. Case in point: the ethnic-inspired embroidered dresses and the top of fringed rhinestones.”(2008) Demeulemeester once said that “I wanted something to give women more of a masculine shape,” (Phelps, 2009)

There are several finds that were quite fresh, however there were some that remained on her signature looks. As discussed by Nicole Phelps (2008):

  • unorganized jacket cinched at the back
  • covered and hooded blouse with narrow cut trousers in coral and nude.
  • The light colored jacket lighter than the bunched and undulating top
  • Pants with unexpected colors
  • Short cotton jersey T-shirt dresses, covered and taken in a way that showed both the twenties and tunics.
  • Use of crystals also felt fresh. Stitched in medallions on vests and softly covered dresses with choker collars of high-necked tops.
  • covered white shirtdress and black leather brace.
  • Black waistcoat and narrow pants
  • Heavy-gauge cardigan capes shaggy with fringe,
  • Jackets layered with little vests stitched all over with bells jangled like armor.

Having to study both designers through literary works and observations, I find Gucci more ladylike in style. Demeulemeester already said that she wishes to incorporate masculinity in women’s clothing. This I believe says it all. More so, studying the style of clothing and colors used in each collection identifies the difference of both parties. Gucci’s selection included various colors for both men and women such as nearly pastel color. Looking at the women’s clothing, they seem all fresh and more on dresses. Gianni included these colors on men’s clothing however not restricting on showing masculinity. Gianni included vibrant colors on men’s clothing to simply give more life on her selection. However, it’s obvious that her base color is mostly earth tone to give distinction to the gender. Demeulemeester on the other hand, concentrated on black and white. Only few selections had coral and nude color. Collections for both men and women are almost the same. However, through structure and a little bit of style gave way to their difference. Women’s clothing was heavy on leggings and had more loose clothing to look fresh and still ladylike. While the styles found on men were limited on clothing.

Conclusion

Coming from different backgrounds, both designers have their own idea of style. Gianni came from various design houses that influenced her to have her current style evolve. Furthermore, Gianni worked under Tom Ford which I believe gave a bigger influence in her knowledge of style. Some critics find Gianni’s creation quite similar to Zara. As stated by Nicolas Ghesquiere and quoted by Amy Odelle, Gianni’s style could easily hit the shelves of Zara and H&M before they become part of Gucci’s stores. He further said that the fabrics of clothes were nothing so significant that would make Gucci stand out from shops that imitates.(2008) However, the question is, is the 2009 collection of Gucci ladylike? Yes. Have they given a distinct relation of styles to both genders? Yes. Ann Demeulemeester on the other hand, has her husband her greatest influence. Which is why masculinity in her women’s clothing is quite present.

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Demeulemeester, stuck to her original sense of style however, showed more masculinity. However, was she able to pick up on the difference of both styles genders? Yes. There is a huge difference in styles. The styles found in the women’s clothing have extended clothes and are heavy on leggings. Gucci on the other hand, used colors found on women’s clothing in men’s as well. The distinctions of both genders are the based colors that are used in men’s clothing. They are very heavy on dark tones plus the most are used on suits and casual clothes. Needless to say, both designers deserve their title for being one of the best known designers. They may have different styles in identifying the best creation for either gender; however, they definitely relate to different individuals or fans. Looking at my preferred style I would definitely choose Gucci for being more feminine.

References

Gucci, n.d. Frida Giann :Creative Director, [online], n.d. Web.

Phelps, N. 2008. 2009 Ready to Wear Ann Demeulemeester, [online] , Web.

Inaya404. 2009. Probably the Most Boring Blog Ever.[online]. Web.

Tania. 2008. Gucci Spring 2009. [online]. Web.

New York Magazine. 2009. Gucci. [online] Web.

Mower, S. 2008. 2009 Gucci. [online] Web.

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WWD. 2008. Gucci Spring 2009. [online] Web.

Zinderman, C. 2009. Gucci’s 2009 Fall/Winter. [online] Web.

Top Fashion Designers. 2009. Ann Demeulemeester.[online] Web.

Davis, B. 2007. Ann Demeulemeester.[online] Web.

Inaya404. 2009. Ann Demeulemeester.[online] Web.

WWD. 2008. Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2009.[online]. Web.

Phelps, N. Anne Demeulemeester Spring 2009. [online]. Web.

Odell, A. 2008. Critics turned off by Frida. [online] Web.

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StudyCorgi. (2021, November 4). The Contemporary Fashion Collections of Ann Demeulemeester and Gucci. Retrieved from https://studycorgi.com/the-contemporary-fashion-collections-of-ann-demeulemeester-and-gucci/

Reference

StudyCorgi. (2021, November 4). The Contemporary Fashion Collections of Ann Demeulemeester and Gucci. https://studycorgi.com/the-contemporary-fashion-collections-of-ann-demeulemeester-and-gucci/

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"The Contemporary Fashion Collections of Ann Demeulemeester and Gucci." StudyCorgi, 4 Nov. 2021, studycorgi.com/the-contemporary-fashion-collections-of-ann-demeulemeester-and-gucci/.

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StudyCorgi. "The Contemporary Fashion Collections of Ann Demeulemeester and Gucci." November 4, 2021. https://studycorgi.com/the-contemporary-fashion-collections-of-ann-demeulemeester-and-gucci/.

References

StudyCorgi. 2021. "The Contemporary Fashion Collections of Ann Demeulemeester and Gucci." November 4, 2021. https://studycorgi.com/the-contemporary-fashion-collections-of-ann-demeulemeester-and-gucci/.

References

StudyCorgi. (2021) 'The Contemporary Fashion Collections of Ann Demeulemeester and Gucci'. 4 November.

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