Abstract
This essay covers the fashion industry in the Middle East. The influence of Western culture, social media and liberal ethical constructs on the fashion and culture of modern Saudi Arabia is explained. Strategies for finding a compromise with a strong Islamic culture are described, as well as recent attempts by Saudi Arabia to integrate itself into the global fashion industry.
Introduction
Factors contributing to the growth of the fashion industry in Middle Eastern culture combine both the principles of fashion itself and consumerist behavior, which in combination form collective socio-cultural norms. These are certain patterns according to which both the economics and discourse around the fashion and clothing industry operate in the country. Referring to previous researchers of this issue, it is impossible not to mention the discovery of consumer patterns that were identified in the analysis of the Saudi Arabian market (Nab, 2019). These patterns express the value systems of Saudi women, as well as similar simulative value systems designed to fulfill expected roles in society. In the context of the Middle East and in particular Saudi Arabia, there is a consumption system that is significantly different from the usual Western culture, which is determined by its commitment to Islamic ethical standards.
The Conflict of Value Systems and the Concept of Modesty
The concept of modesty and moderation is dominant, and the need to hide parts of one’s body is ethically natural to the female society of Saudi culture. The principle of modesty is translated through the use of abaya, that is, a black cloth that hides the body (Abalkhail, 2018). However, there are cases where it is permissible to wear bright and open western style clothes, particularly in feminine environments, creating a paradox of fashion consumption. Thus, behind the external parameter of a clearly expressed religious restraint, there is a reverse side, to some extent even exaggeratedly and extremely actively perceiving Western popular culture and the fashion industry.
This trend is so high that at the moment Western stores and fashion houses are looking at Saudi Arabia and in general the countries of the East as potentially the most promising emerging markets (Philippe, 2021). Almost all clothing presented on the Saudi market is Western and the demand for it has practically ousted the national representatives of the fashion industry from the market. Ideologically, there are two ways to look at the current situation and comprehend the concept of modesty. Based on these two views, it will be possible to draw up probable prospects for the current state of the problem. On the one hand, Western culture can be seen as negatively influencing Islamic identity, preaching the ideas of globalization and calling for the denunciation of possible signs of inequality, in particular between the sexes (Almaiki, 2019). Islamic fundamentalism requires the preservation and labeling of the traditional values that the abaya expresses, thus preserving a unique culture (Nab, 2019). On the other hand, the abaya is an instrument of segregation and suppression, the imposition of a patriarchal value system and hierarchy.
SMM is actively used in the fashion business in Saudi Arabia and is even an effective tool for launching one’s own startups (Al Nefaie et al., 2019). Saudi Arabia also has a thriving culture of vloggers, internet models and influencers, with some YouTube channels reaching over 250,000 subscribers (Trad & Al Dabbagh, 2020). This way of using media is an was first noted in Western culture, and tracing it into the female section of society in the Middle East only speaks of the depth of penetration of social media and marketing tools into even the most rigorous cultural systems.
Western culture and its value system in this way really encourages the women of Saudi Arabia to express themselves and prove their right to choose how they look. At the same time, as a social stratum, they feel the need to observe the principles of Islamic fundamentalism and do it superficially, exclusively through the practice of veiling (Alajaji, 2018). The Wahhabist value system that has dominated Saudi Arabia sees women as beings threatened by liberal ideas that give them equality with men. Sex segregation in Saudi Arabia is extremely strong, to the point where married women are prohibited from contact with other men in order to avoid sexual temptation (“World report 2020: Rights trends in Saudi Arabia,” 2020). This tribal principle of mentality is clearly violated by other cultural requirements of the current Western ideology, which puts individual freedom as the main value (“Country comparison,” 2021). The impossibility of completely breaking out of the system of gender relations that have formed in the social institution of the country determines the peculiarity of the consumption and representation of Western fashion in Saudi Arabia.
How Do Western Brands Fit In
It is important to note that such stores as Marks and Spencer or Zara make certain adjustments to the collections of their brand clothes before launching them on the eastern market. This is due to possible ethical conflicts caused by the strictness of the Middle Eastern religious culture (Feda, 2019). Companies worry that if they sell clothes that are too revealing or that may seem provocative, they could be forced out of the market and lose a significant share of their potential profits. Some shops, like the supermarket Lulu, have begun to amend the principle of recruitment, appointing exclusively women as consultants, since in this way husbands can safely let their wives go shopping for fashion clothes alone (Michaelson, 2019). Thus, the Western fashion and clothing industries, which are already in great demand in the Eastern market, make additional concessions towards the dominant culture and morality in the country in order to maintain and strengthen their position in a particular country.
Fashion Industry in the Context of Vision 2030
The increased consumption of fashion in Saudi Arabia is even a subject of reflection in the context of the vision of a sustainable future. Like many other countries, Saudi Arabia has expressed its concerns about environmental issues, and sustainable development has been declared by the government of the country as one of the key priorities (“Environmental protection in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia,” n.d.). The government of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia presented its specially designed program called Vision 2030 focused on finding alternative fuel sources and production, as well as the transition to greener and cleaner production processes (Alosaimi, 2022). However, in the context of an evolving fashion industry, there may be obstacles to sustainability due to the need to use large amounts of raw materials. The sharp increase in economic turnover makes the process of production and consumption of fashionable and branded products difficult to reverse. The fashion industry is large, and produces a lot of money, both for the companies and for the country’s economy. The presence of flowing capital stimulates other types of purchases and allows the company to stay competitive on the world arena. Clearly, more research and proposals for campaigns or projects are needed to offer the fashion industry in Saudi Arabia a more eco-conscious path forward.
Another one of the concepts of Vision 2030 is integration into the world of fashion as part of the entertainment industry. Saudi Arabia is currently trying to present its affable and futuristic socio-political portrait to the world, which in fact may be an attempt to mask the country’s grotesque violations of human rights. The creative and fashion industry in Saudi Arabia, according to plans in Vision 2030, should receive millions of dollars for revitalization and actualization in the country’s market and the global market (“Vision 2030 projects,” n.d.). The paradox that Saudi Arabian models are now appearing despite the fact that women are forbidden to drive, for example, is really problematic. However, it cannot be denied that the already existing platform of the fashion industry is evidence of a certain amount of emancipation through fashion marketing and awareness of celebrity culture.
Summary
The contemporary cultural position of Saudi women places them in between commonly applauded western liberal ideas and principles of modesty. Social media and the possibility of interacting via the Internet have made Western culture and fashion more understandable and accessible, which has significantly increased the demand for it in the country in recent years. In the context of the Vision 2030 project, it is planned to modernize the national futuristic industry, which, however, may harm the supported development of the country by changing its core values and traditions.
Conclusion
Western internet culture and the fashion industry are heavily permeating Eastern culture at the moment. Women are in the controversial position of people who both respect traditional values and insistently demand the right to self-expression. It is no coincidence that in recent years, decorated and designer abaya veils have begun to appear more. Strict Eastern culture is forced to make certain concessions to the female class. There are a number of potential conclusions to draw from this research, ranging from a desire to help Saudi Arabia embrace western ideals to the effort of engaging with the traditional values of the country more thoroughly. As a result of engaging with my work, I hope that the readers understood the potential value of Vision 2030 and the changes it proposes to SA society.
References
Abalkhail, T. S. (2018). Traditional cultural values vs. religiosity: Saudi female purchase intention of Turkish Islamic fashion. International Journal of Islamic Marketing and Branding 3(3), 196-208. Web.
Al Nefaie, M., Khan, S. & Muthaly, S. (2019). Consumers’ electronic word of mouth-seeking intentions on social media sites concerning Saudi bloggers’ YouTube fashion channels: an eclectic approach. International Journal of Business Forecasting and Marketing Intelligence 5(1), 1-22.
Alajaji, T. H. (2018). Abaya and its aesthetic fashion role in Saudi Arabia. Global Fashion Conference 2018. Web.
Almaiki, F. H. (2019). Remaking the past: Fashion heritage futures in Bani Malik Al Hijaz, Saudi Arabia. Congreso Internacional de Artes y Culturas. Web.
Alosaimi, S. I. (2022). Sustainability, Saudi Arabia and luxury fashion context: An oxymoron or a new way? In: Henninger, C.E., Athwal, N.K. (eds) Sustainable Luxury. Palgrave Macmillan.
Country comparison. (2021). Hofstede Insights. Web.
Environmental protection in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. (n.d.). Web.
Feda, L. A. (2019). Innovative solutions for traditional Saudi Arabian costumes using TRIZ principles. International Journal of Systematic Innovation 5(3). Web.
Michaelson, R. (2019). An ‘oasis’ for women? Inside Saudi Arabia’s vast new female-only workspaces. the Guardian. Web.
Nab, E. A. (2019). Women’s fashion consumption in Saudi Arabia. A thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. De Montfort University, Leicester.
Philippe, B. H. (2021). How promising is the fashion market in the MENA region? Fashion Trust Arabia. Web.
Trad, N., & Al Dabbagh, M. A. (2020). Use of social media as an effective marketing tool for fashion startups in Saudi Arabia. Open Journal of Social Sciences 8(11). Web.
Vision 2030 projects. (n.d.). Vision 2030. Web.
World report 2020: Rights trends in Saudi Arabia. (2020). Human Rights Watch. Web.