Gastronomic Identity Ethnography: Casa Mono

Background

This paper will base its inquiry into the aspects of the gastronomic identity of Spain on Casa Mono dining. Opened in 2004 and awarded a Michelin star in 2009, Casa Mono is a tapas bar restaurant inspired by the ethnography of Spain’s Costa Brava (About – Casa Mono & Bar Jamon, n.d.). Founded in 2003 by Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich, it was one of the earliest and most influential restaurants to transform the Spanish tapas paradigm into what New Yorkers call small-plate dining (About – Casa Mono & Bar Jamon, n.d.). The founders wanted to bring novelty to the world of Spanish cuisine while staying true to its authenticity. This motivation rings true through the observing restaurant’s employees: the head chef, Andy Nusser, born and raised in the fishing village of Cadaqués on Spain’s Costa Brava, and the executive chef, Jonathan Melendez (About – Casa Mono & Bar Jamon, n.d.). Exploring the menu and experiencing the restaurant’s atmosphere allowed me to gain insight into Spanish ethnography.

Casa Mono, coupled with Bar Jamón, is located on the corner of Irving Place and 17th Street, just east of Union Square – the centrality of its location adds further value and contrast to the experience. Given the location and the average price, this restaurant’s target customers may range widely from nostalgic Spaniards to New Yorkers looking for a non-pretentious fine dining experience. Unfortunately, interviewing the owners or employees was too challenging due to the busy schedules.

Representation

The food in Casa Mono reflects the Spanish strive to keep the authentic nutrition, closely based on Mediterranean staples resulting from an abundance of sun and sea access. Its truly signature cuisine arises due to Casa Mono treating the Hudson Valley as a local market in Barcelona, Spain, and importing authentic ingredients. Some standard products are a selection of cheeses, numerous pickled ingredients, anchovies, and ‘Jamón Iberico’ (Menu – Casa Mono & Bar Jamon, n.d.). Moreover, Spain’s geographic location near the sea is reflected in this menu by its seafood and fish selection. Here, one can try the traditional style of serving ‘tapas’, or small portions, the description language reflects the cultural environment of Spain. Upon sitting at the bar directly in front of the grill, one can smell the smoke of meals cooked ‘a la plancha.’ The smells create a feeling of rural Spain, with fresh food cooked directly over the flames.

The food menu only consists of 21 entries, written mostly in Spanish as a homage to the original cuisine. The menu creators have reimagined classic dishes, favoring innovative ingredients like rooster scallops and pig’s feet (About – Casa Mono & Bar Jamon, n.d.). The meal can be started with ‘Pana con Tomate’ or traditional Spanish bread with tomatoes and olive oil. The simplicity of this dish uncovers the heart of Mediterranean culture. Next, Casa Mono’s original twist on tapas presents dishes like soft eggs with sea urchins, crunchy walnuts, lime zest, and pungent anchovy oil. Another exemplar of reverence to Spain’s gastronomic identity is an authentic entry of roasted piquillo peppers stuffed with braised oxtail. Finally, the original flavors of imported Manchego cheese and locally adapted ‘Crema Catalana con Buñuelos’ bring in another ethnographic reference to the Catalan culture (Menu – Casa Mono & Bar Jamon, n.d). ‘Crema Catalana’ comes with a crunchy, hard coat of burnt sugar atop the custard and deep-fried bay leaves, which one eats by pinching off the stem and separating the coating from the soft leaf.

Last but not least, Casa Mono and Bar Jamón share a wine list of hundreds of beverages, representing a thoughtful selection of Spain’s expansive contribution to the world of wine. Other drinks follow the sweets section, presenting traditional Spanish coffee styles such as ‘Café Cortado’ and ‘Café con Leche’ (Menu – Casa Mono & Bar Jamon, n.d.). No sodas or juices are offered, with the wine menu being the shining star, distinctly differentiating it from the ‘regular’ American restaurants.

Environmental Considerations

Casa Mono strives to prioritize sustainability: from water to waste, disposables to chemicals, seasonal food, and materials used to furnish its space. The restaurant takes steps to improve operational efficiency, use local ingredients and reduce its carbon footprint (About – Casa Mono & Bar Jamon, n.d.). Additionally, its menu section called ‘whole organic animals’ refers to the traditional practice of buying whole animals and cutting them into portions called ‘raciones’ (Menu – Casa Mono & Bar Jamon, n.d.). Although some ingredients are imported, the restaurant nonetheless shows an admirable commitment to the environment.

Visiting Experience

Upon the first entry to Casa Mono, I got greeted by the charismatic servers, who approached the guests with elegance and warmth. The sensory overload from being in the restaurant was at times overpowering. I could hear loud and energetic music and occasional Spanish words exchanged in the crowd, which truly added to the authentic atmosphere. It made me recall that in researching this restaurant, I have come across reviews from Spaniards who visited the restaurant in search of the home dining experience.

The intimate space held just over ten tables and several bar seats. I could not maneuver through the restaurant without accidentally touching others’ shoulders or hands with so little room. The perception of personal space and comfort was reminiscent of Spanish rather than American cultural geography – the communication was open, extremely friendly, and physically expressive. Looking around, I could feel that the space was purposefully designed to create the ethnographic landscape of Spain. The interior walls were lined with wine bottles, shining in plentiful light from the floor-to-ceiling windows, reminiscent of the Mediterranean sun.

My experience at Casa Mono was excellent, even though the service suffers slightly due to overcrowding. However, the crowds in the establishment did not take away from my experience, as it felt like the way it should be – loud, lively, and energetic. The food tasted impeccable and authentic; novel approaches did not undermine the overall impression of fresh ingredients. With its glass doors to 17th Street, the dining room was charming, with, if not privacy, at least intimacy in the small room. Given the open kitchen and the restaurant’s size, the staff could be seen and heard throughout the restaurant as they chatted with the guests, received orders, and prepared food. I truly felt as if I was in one of the Spanish villages, watching my meal being prepared right there.

The experience of being immersed in the busy, semi-chaotic, yet incredibly welcoming atmosphere of Spanish dining in New York provided me with a great proxy for exploring Spanish gastronomic identity. The value of visiting Casa Mono went beyond tasting delicious meals – it included the recipes’ authenticity, approach to ingredients, and the feeling of being transported to another country for just one dinner. Overall, this understanding allowed connecting Spanish ethnography and my dining experience through the restaurant atmosphere.

References

About—Casa Mono & Bar Jamon. (n.d.). Casa Mono & Bar Jamon.

Menu—Casa Mono & Bar Jamon. (n.d.). Casa Mono & Bar Jamon.

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StudyCorgi. "Gastronomic Identity Ethnography: Casa Mono." March 23, 2023. https://studycorgi.com/gastronomic-identity-ethnography-casa-mono/.

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StudyCorgi. 2023. "Gastronomic Identity Ethnography: Casa Mono." March 23, 2023. https://studycorgi.com/gastronomic-identity-ethnography-casa-mono/.

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